Wednesday, June 01, 2011

How do you say 'deja vu' in Korean?

I find myself in Hartsfield-Atlanta waiting for a Delta flight that is suddenly a Korean Air flight too.
it made sense last time (flight to Seoul) but I'm more surprised this time (headed to Louisville)

http://mfactor42.blogspot.com/2007/06/korea-sparkling.html

There is no fanfare today, which is fine, but I'd like to get another gift bag...

Wednesday, September 01, 2010

I'm Amazed

Slept only 4 of the last 40 hours
Showered awhile ago
Last completely clean change of clothes came with the last shower
Splitting headache for the last 12 hours
Last meal that I truly tasted was 72 hours ago

And I couldn't be happier than I am holding (I now, more fully comprehend this term) this little bundle of joy

Monday, August 23, 2010

A New Era?!

School starts this morning. I know that because the calendar tells me so, because I'm up at 5:00 AM and because the radio told us to look out for school buses. This year has a definite difference: with Baby Boy due this week, I have barely noticed the dreaded "end of vacation" as I'm all wrapped up in "whoa, something big (or little) and new".

Wednesday, August 04, 2010

10 people in the shower?! It must be a party

Tonight, Lisa's book club threw us a baby shower. (IMPORTANT: Thanks to Jessica for all the planning and beautiful scene and to Jeremy for the location and the amazing food!).

I've been to one or two baby showers (I think two) and have certainly seen more on TV or in the movies and heard about the important as a rite of passage event - tonight was nearly unrecognizable to those familiar with the clichés - drinks, a gourmet meal, and a cake that could have come from a reality show.

Again, important thanks to Jessica and Jeremy for making it happen :) I hope someone sends me all the photos (my fancy new camera is great in every situation but low-light.

Wednesday, July 14, 2010

Transformation

Ahoy loyal readers!

So the typical summer travel log isn't gonna happen this year. For this summer only, let's call this a "nesting" blog.

Hopefully I can keep this rolling.

Monday, August 17, 2009

It's all over.

We returned home safely almost exactly a week ago and we've been vegging out as best as possible -neither of us has finished unpacking.

Today is the last day of my summer vacation - a tragic day understood by my fellow teachers and a completely unsympathetic whine to the rest of the world. I am currently posting the photos and a few videos (one with sound overdub) from our recent trip. They appear in the new Picasa gallery on the right side of the blog or you can click the link.

http://picasaweb.google.com/MurrayFactor/CentralAndSouthernEuropeSummer2009#

Friday, August 07, 2009

Budapest

We have been here for a few days now - what a bustling and beautiful place. This is likely the hottest tourist spot we've visited on this trip (rivaled only by Munich). There are lots of crowds and buses - and with good reason - the city is filled with beautiful buildings, rich history and great food!

Many of the great buildings are complemented by the great views one can get of them - views of Pest from the heights of Buda and views of Buda lit up at night from the riverbank in Pest.

Tuesday, August 04, 2009

Sports day in Zagreb

Sure, we saw a museum and a few churches but the day was bookended by two of the premier sports franchises in Croatia.
First was a trip to the Drazen Petrovic Center, home to a museum (closed during basketball off season), a monument to Petrovic and the court of Cibona, the powerhouse of Croatia's league and successful in Euroleague as well. Although Petrovic died with many games yet to play, he was inducted into the Basketball Hall of Fame a few years ago and there is a touching memorial to him here.

In the late afternoon, we noticed a lot of blue Dinamo shirts moving around town (not on their own - people were wearing them). We asked around and found that the popular Dinamo squad had a UEFA Champions League match in a few hours. After very little debate we found out how to get to the game and went. Although the home side lost, we had a great time and learned a few cheers (and jeers).

Homeland Hrvatska

After we made our way around the breathtaking Cathedral of the Assumption, "Zlatko", a proud local caught us eyeing a guide to the place and appointed himself our tour guide. Zlatko found out we were from USA and gave us two great facts connecting our history to Croatia's. I think he could have done that with any nation and would love to hear how Croatia relates to Iceland or Korea or Namibia. If you remember the father character from "Big Fat Greek Wedding", it was kind of like that - an endearing nationalism.

Croatia's youth as an independent nation is so strange given the long history here (the same is true in Slovenia). In a wonderful bit of perspective picked up today, we learned that the provincial capital RETURNED to Zagreb in 1776 (it had originally been here for a few centuries, left, then returned) the year the USA declared independence.

We leave Croatia on August 5, the national holiday "Homeland Day", commemorating the end of their war for independence.

Sunday, August 02, 2009

Can I get a Linguistics credit for this?

When I was a kid, I learned about the language of Yugoslavia: "Serbo-Croat" - noteworthy due to it's use of a Roman alphabet (by Croats) and a Cyrrillic one (by the Serbs). While a few universities outside the area still teach "Serbo-Croat", the locals refer to their mother tongue by a more nationalistic moniker - Bosnian, Serbian or Croatian, depending on locale.

Well, we learned "hello" and "thank you" on the train, because, as the saying goes "everybody there speaks English". We have found that to be almost as true here as anywhere else, but with a few twists. First, it is important to note that everyone also speaks German and Italian - actually, many older folks have a combination of those without English. The older woman who rented us a room a few nights ago gave a "pah!" at English and we began discussions in bad German until she frustratingly asked "Italiano?" and we offered back "Francais" and "Espanol". She loved that and spoke Italian to Lisa's Spanish and was very happy - it was only as effective as the German conversation but made our hostess happier.

The most surprising thing to see is that English ranks no better than third alternative. That is almost unprecedented in our prior experience. Many things appear in a second or third language, but you have to hit 4th or 5th language to get English. The more time we spend here, the better Lisa's Italian and my German become.

We suspect this is an indicator that the strong tourism industry here is extremely regional: Italians and Germans abound. Either group outnumbers all others combined and we feel like we might be the only Americans in the whole country.

Friday, July 31, 2009

Size Matters - revisited

Over the trips I have recorded on this blog, I think the entry "size matters" (Jue 2007) has prompted the most reaction. Basically, I commented about the smaller framed people and some funny moments caused by my size (both height and weight). In Guatrmala last winter, height differential was again very noticeable.

Here in Croatia, the tables have turned. I am probably a bit below average height among the men here - shorter than a lot of women too (their 3 inch heels notwithstanding).

Perhaps this size advantage helps explain how Croatia has excelled in sports for a relatively small nation - just 5 million (tall) people. Of course, basketball is big here (pun not intended) - Olympic medals and NBA titles for a number of players. Other tall people sports are popular too - notably volleyball and water polo. Andy Roddick once said that all the Croatian tennis players were 7 foot tall. While I can neither verify nor dispute Mr Roddick, I do have this tale....

In buying tee shirts in Laos, I had to pay extra for an XXL that fights me like a youth medium. In Guatemala, the sizing was a bit better, but inconsistent. I was tee shirt shopping here (okay, it was in Slovenia but the story still works) and Lisa asked the clerk for the next size up. The woman asked "vhor heem?" and shook her head while smiling. The shirt fits and I paid regular price.

Zadar

Zadar is an overlooked coastal town with a rich history (Venetian, Hapsburg, Yugoslav, Croat - bombed by Allies in WWII and Serbs in 1994), hip nite life (powered, no kidding, by UB40 - club owners now) and two unique features: the Sun Salutation and the Sea Organ.

You should just look these up - Wikipedia I'm sure. I don't know if I have the words :)

Thursday, July 30, 2009

Times they have a' changed

So the Plitvice Lakes area is a popular spot - perhaps as popular as ever - though it is evident that times have changed.

We stayed at one of 3 hotels - all with a definite 1970s look. Our hotel has massive conference rooms, a night club, a banquet hall, outdoor concrete ping pong tables, tennis courts, a bowling alley and a sauna. The hotel is very well kept, but the grounds have fallen into disrepair - many a loose or missing stone on the paths. The night club, conference rooms and banquet hall are empty and the ping pong tables are in need of paint and nets. Beyond the hotels, there are large abandoned buildings throughout the grounds - one had an elaborate outer staircase and what looks like a solarium (Or maybe an "atrium"-I don't know the difference).

It certainely appears that this may have been one of the premier resorts of the Yugoslav era - people may have saved all year (or years) to come for a few days - or maybe elites and party leaders came more easily. Several factors have contributed to change the park's situation. The war in Croatia actually began with a skirmish here in 1991 (can't be good for tourism) and this area was dominated by Croat Serbs until 1995's Peace Accords. Peace brought openness and closure - not many Bosnians can afford to come here and I'm not sure many Serbs would feel comfortable. The rest of Europe has steamed in - cars from half the EU were in the parking lot and we passed a lot of tour bus loads along the paths. It seems that the park has become a stop on the bus route or a day trip in from the coast. The park stays just as busy but the hotels are a shadow of their former selves.

Wednesday, July 29, 2009

more photos on Flickr

Click the Flickr link for more photos

Photos from Plitvice Lakes




Plitvices Lakes National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage site (read more HERE).




It is amazing.... here are just a few pics












Plitvice Lakes National Park

Everything we've read and everyone we asked put Plitvice as the top priority in Croatia. Accessible only on the slow bus routes that connect the capital with the 2 largest cities on the coast, it is a slow ride through the countryside. The 3 hotels on park grounds all look to have been built in the 1970s - and the room looks that way too.

None of this matters - the Park more than lives up to billing: water flowing from top to bottom, with boardwalks going around, over and on top of water falls.

Photos to come

Tuesday, July 28, 2009

to the Balkans we go?

The term "Balkans" has to me indicated the territories that comprised the Former Yugoslavia. In reading up
to prepare for this trip, I have found otherwise. It seems that no one ever called Slovenia "Balkan" - they have a Germanic society but their Slavic language and small size led them to throw their lot in with the Yugos.
Croatia considers it's deep Catholicism as the reason it is not really "Balkan" (or even "Western Balkan" as the Slovene press refers to them).
So I didn't really enter the Balkans last week after a 10 minute tunnel left Austria and the Croatian policeman who just stamped my passport would tell me that I have to head further south and or east.
maybe the next trip ...... :)

Monday, July 27, 2009

Getting no flies, just honey

Honey is a major gift shop item here in Slovenia. The product range looks remarkably similar to the maple syrup gifts you can buy in Vermont, Quebec and other places - bottles of various sizes, honey of various colors, with or without honeycomb, litle candies, dipping spoons and more. As a kid, we used a lot of honey and I like the stuff, but I'm not even tempted to lug a glass jar of sticky agricultural product in my bag or through 3 sets of customs in the next two weeks.
I presume that all this honey production just might relate to all of the buzzing around here. At home, I never see bees - never. I don't look for them, but they never are just buzzing around when I'm sitting outside. Bees are the dominant insect here - not to the point of annoyance (Lisa would disagree) but they are always around. They like to check out your beer, the dressing on your salad or, as we witnessed at the farmers market today, sliced melons wrapped in plastic - must be like bee torture. We walked by the farmers market after closing and there was a mini swarm on the melon stall's trash heap.
That's the buzz here in Ljubljana (ha ha) - we go to Zagreb tomorrow.

Sunday, July 26, 2009

I feel sLOVEnia

We are here in Ljubljana. While it has only been an official capital a relatively short time, "it has been preparing for centuries" - according to one of many brochures put out by the hard working tourist bureau. We would agree - this is a wonderful place to spend time. There is a tourism push - I think the bureau underwrites some cheap tours and bike rentals. Slovenia joined the EU in 2004, the Euro monetary union in 2007 and was the first former communist state to serve as EU president. They rank on the low end in a lot of EU categories but have a high overall standard of living (there is some tough competition there). The culture and architecture feels like a blend of Italy and Austria (shocker) but there is a dash of Communist bloc architecture mixed in - especially once you leave the Old Town. Any amount of Slovene you can speak seems to please folks - I've added "very much" to my "thank you" - need to learn "check please" (the checks are always a pleasant surprise after Austria and Germany).

Saturday, July 25, 2009

"Bled Days" - opening night

We only are in town for the first night of the festival - so we wanted to make the most of it. All through the day, temporary vendor tents and beer gardens were developing. As we came down the castle hill, the streets were filling up. After a short break back at the hotel, we joined the fray ("fray" implies disorder or chaos - there was none).

For dinner, we chose a mixed grill plate (I think "fijakanar", but I could be missing or adding letters). It is hard to be certain as to what we ate - little sausages, hambuger pounded flat, pork and I think veal. The same marinade was on all the meats so there was a blending of flavors. The primary side was boiled then slightly grilled potatoes. There was a generous slice of fresh bell pepper and fresh chopped onion, sour cream for the potato, mustard and a mild chili sauce for the meat. The bell pepper continued a color trend I'd noticed here - basically that there are a lot of available colors. I have seen green, yellow, red and orange at home. This was a lime green/ yellow (okay, maybe it just hadn't ripened). Yesterday I had one that was deep purple. The grilled meats were fantastic (when are they not?) and the garnishes complimented them well.

The big treat at dinner was the company. As we were seeking a spot, an older couple gestured to open seats next to them. They were sharing the same plate we'd chosen. As we both finished up, they offered wrapped toothpicks and said something in Slovene, pointing at our empty plate. Seeing what must have been a blank look from both of us, the man said something that I was able to glean some German words from so we were able to chat a bit. They seemed surprised that we were American - at least that's how we interpreted the awkward pause. If I understood him, they'd visited the US and South America extensively, as well as Iceland, Greenland, Siberia and the North Pole (this is where I really think I may have misunderstood). They have 9 grandchildren - but I'm not sure if that comes from their 2 daughters, their 3 kids or their 5 children - and the man is 73 years old -" I think. It was a nice little visit.

We eventually retired to our hotel balcony for the laser (pronounced with a short 'a' by the PA) and fireworks show. The lasers were projected onto the stone below the castle - it was a cute 10 minute show whose theme seemed to be "Slovenia welcomes Europe to Bled". The fireworks followed - again a nicely short show. There was a neat vertical phenoma going on for us - we were probably 100 feet above the lake (hillside plus building) so the fireworks were almost at eye level for us - like being in the middle of the show. Mother Nature complimented both displays with a cool lightning storm backlighting the castle (a rainy night may have sent revelers home early).