Friday, July 31, 2009

Size Matters - revisited

Over the trips I have recorded on this blog, I think the entry "size matters" (Jue 2007) has prompted the most reaction. Basically, I commented about the smaller framed people and some funny moments caused by my size (both height and weight). In Guatrmala last winter, height differential was again very noticeable.

Here in Croatia, the tables have turned. I am probably a bit below average height among the men here - shorter than a lot of women too (their 3 inch heels notwithstanding).

Perhaps this size advantage helps explain how Croatia has excelled in sports for a relatively small nation - just 5 million (tall) people. Of course, basketball is big here (pun not intended) - Olympic medals and NBA titles for a number of players. Other tall people sports are popular too - notably volleyball and water polo. Andy Roddick once said that all the Croatian tennis players were 7 foot tall. While I can neither verify nor dispute Mr Roddick, I do have this tale....

In buying tee shirts in Laos, I had to pay extra for an XXL that fights me like a youth medium. In Guatemala, the sizing was a bit better, but inconsistent. I was tee shirt shopping here (okay, it was in Slovenia but the story still works) and Lisa asked the clerk for the next size up. The woman asked "vhor heem?" and shook her head while smiling. The shirt fits and I paid regular price.

Zadar

Zadar is an overlooked coastal town with a rich history (Venetian, Hapsburg, Yugoslav, Croat - bombed by Allies in WWII and Serbs in 1994), hip nite life (powered, no kidding, by UB40 - club owners now) and two unique features: the Sun Salutation and the Sea Organ.

You should just look these up - Wikipedia I'm sure. I don't know if I have the words :)

Thursday, July 30, 2009

Times they have a' changed

So the Plitvice Lakes area is a popular spot - perhaps as popular as ever - though it is evident that times have changed.

We stayed at one of 3 hotels - all with a definite 1970s look. Our hotel has massive conference rooms, a night club, a banquet hall, outdoor concrete ping pong tables, tennis courts, a bowling alley and a sauna. The hotel is very well kept, but the grounds have fallen into disrepair - many a loose or missing stone on the paths. The night club, conference rooms and banquet hall are empty and the ping pong tables are in need of paint and nets. Beyond the hotels, there are large abandoned buildings throughout the grounds - one had an elaborate outer staircase and what looks like a solarium (Or maybe an "atrium"-I don't know the difference).

It certainely appears that this may have been one of the premier resorts of the Yugoslav era - people may have saved all year (or years) to come for a few days - or maybe elites and party leaders came more easily. Several factors have contributed to change the park's situation. The war in Croatia actually began with a skirmish here in 1991 (can't be good for tourism) and this area was dominated by Croat Serbs until 1995's Peace Accords. Peace brought openness and closure - not many Bosnians can afford to come here and I'm not sure many Serbs would feel comfortable. The rest of Europe has steamed in - cars from half the EU were in the parking lot and we passed a lot of tour bus loads along the paths. It seems that the park has become a stop on the bus route or a day trip in from the coast. The park stays just as busy but the hotels are a shadow of their former selves.

Wednesday, July 29, 2009

more photos on Flickr

Click the Flickr link for more photos

Photos from Plitvice Lakes




Plitvices Lakes National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage site (read more HERE).




It is amazing.... here are just a few pics












Plitvice Lakes National Park

Everything we've read and everyone we asked put Plitvice as the top priority in Croatia. Accessible only on the slow bus routes that connect the capital with the 2 largest cities on the coast, it is a slow ride through the countryside. The 3 hotels on park grounds all look to have been built in the 1970s - and the room looks that way too.

None of this matters - the Park more than lives up to billing: water flowing from top to bottom, with boardwalks going around, over and on top of water falls.

Photos to come

Tuesday, July 28, 2009

to the Balkans we go?

The term "Balkans" has to me indicated the territories that comprised the Former Yugoslavia. In reading up
to prepare for this trip, I have found otherwise. It seems that no one ever called Slovenia "Balkan" - they have a Germanic society but their Slavic language and small size led them to throw their lot in with the Yugos.
Croatia considers it's deep Catholicism as the reason it is not really "Balkan" (or even "Western Balkan" as the Slovene press refers to them).
So I didn't really enter the Balkans last week after a 10 minute tunnel left Austria and the Croatian policeman who just stamped my passport would tell me that I have to head further south and or east.
maybe the next trip ...... :)